Well Made - Work Great by: Patridk from: LIttle Rock, AR on: June 22, 2015 |
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I have one of these on each of my remote vents, and they really do the job of keeping backdraft out of the house. I originally had only the backdraft that was built into the unit, but it still let air flow back. These spring loaded dampers with the foam seal they sit on do an excellent job of stopping the unwanted air completely, while allowing the exhaust air to freely flow out when on. Love them. |
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super high quality, very cool. by: Erik Price ✔Verified Buyer from: Orange, CA on: January 4, 2011 |
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I have not installed it yet, but am very impressed with the high quality. It will work out perfectly for my application. |
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super high quality, very cool. by: Erik Price ✔Verified Buyer from: Orange, CA on: January 4, 2011 |
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I have not installed it yet, but am very impressed with the high quality. It will work out perfectly for my application. |
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Solidly built, but damper doors don't seal completely by: A. Butler ✔Verified Buyer from: Ann Arbor, MI on: November 9, 2010 |
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Bought one of these a couple weeks ago to install with a TD-100x venting a bathroom through my roof.
The body is a solid chunk of metal with nice epoxy/enamel coating. The rubber surfaces around openings are nice, and give a snug fit onto the outlet port of the fan unit. The damper doors operate freely, opening about 2/3 of the way when the fan is running, and quickly returning to the closed position against a heavy rubber o-ring when it is switched off. There is a very small spring mounted on the hinge shaft that does this, which means it can be mounted in any position (not true for some other designs).
My primary complaint is that the hinge shaft seems to be placed a few mm too far from the sealing o-ring, so that the closed position has the damper doors flexing several degrees beyond flat. This results in there being a gap of 1/8" or so around portions of circumference. While I understand this small gap will not allow major drafts to blow backwards through the system, it seems to be that a nearly perfect seal would have been possible if the hinge shaft holes were more precisely positioned nearer the sealing surface of the o-ring. The o-ring resides in an indentation, which is a good idea since it won't creep over time, but it also prevents me from adjusting its position.
Out of curiosity, I purchased locally a cheap backflow damper of a different design (a single plastic door that flaps open/closed under its own weight), and found that it too didn't seal completely along the closing surface. Is this poor engineering, or an intentional feature to allow for buildup of dust or other crud over time?
In the end, I am content with this item being of a high build quality, even if it doesn't seem to seal perfectly.
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Will this work in wood furnace duct? - Asked about product SL-CAR250 | ||
The maximum temperature that this part can have pass through it is 140 degrees Fahrenheit / 60 degrees Celsius. The return spring built into the damper will weaken at temperatures over these numbers. |
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What is the height of this damper, is it spring loaded and what is the seal material - Asked about product SL-MCA-250 | ||
The Diameter of the MCA-250 damper is 10-3/8inches however, the Length of the duct is 6-3/16inches. Additional, dimensions for the MCS Back Draft Damper will be added to the page.
Yes, the damper is spring-loaded for positive closure. The shutter is also made of epoxy coated steel. The MCA damper is typically used when connecting two fans together and that if you are using one fan, the CAR damper (further down the page) would be recommended over it. |
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